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Farmhouse Living 突斯卡尼農居

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Farmhouse Living in Tuscany

突斯卡尼的農家生活

NatGeo-Tuscany

Driving from the Florence airport to the small town of Casole d’Elsa in the heart of Tuscany feels like traveling deep into a landscape painting of rolling hills dotted with cypress trees and stone farmhouses. My perch for the week is a traditional stone casele (farmhouse) named Pulcinello (after one of the original farms on the estate), one of 28 farmhouses that have been restored at Castello di Casole, a resident/hotel property and working farm sprawled over 4,200 acres about 16 miles west of Siena.

(Florence)佛羅倫斯機場開車前往(Tuscany)突斯卡尼的心臟地帶(Casole d’Elsa)愛紗小鎮的途中,就像深入到點綴著絲柏木和石頭農舍,到處都是連綿起伏的丘陵的山水畫中。我要棲息一個星期的落腳處是一個傳統的石屋鄉(農舍),名為(Pulcinello)普基納羅(以這個地方的其中一個原始農場命名),住在28棟農舍裡的其中一棟,在Castello di Casole這個地方被修復成民宿,有一個實用的農場,佔地超過4200英畝,位於(Siena)西雅娜以西16英哩的地方。

Crowning this spectacular countryside is an imposing 12th century castle where the new Hotel Castello will feature 41 luxurious suites when it opens next spring. Once the home of the noble Bargagli family of Siena, and later a hideaway for Italian celebrities, the hotel’s architects and artisans have rebuilt much of the property using reclaimed materials—ceramic tile, wood beams, and terracotta—from the original estate.

這個景色壯觀的郊外山區最有看頭的景點是一棟12世紀的古堡,已經改裝成(Castello)卡斯特羅古堡酒店,有41間豪華套房,預定在下一個秋季開幕。這裡曾經是(Siena)西雅娜的貴族Bargagli一家人的住所,後來還一度成了意大利名人們避風頭之處,這家酒店的設計師和工匠們還就地取材,用當地找來的舊建材如瓷磚,木梁和土陶去整修古堡內外。

During a tour, I walk along vineyards of Cabernet and Sangiovese grapes harvested for the Castello’s wines, and groves of olives pressed for the house olive oil, both of which are stocked in my farmhouse. I spot wild fennel and rosemary—ingredients that flavor several of the delicious meals I eat during my visit. The land surrounding the farmhouses looks untouched, with no development as far as the eye can see. Every now and then a small town rises on the horizon and beckons exploration.

在參觀的過程中,我經過長滿了(Cabernet)赤霞珠和Sangiovese紫葡萄的葡萄園,準備用來釀製(Castello)卡斯特羅酒,還有屋子從周圍的橄欖樹摘下的橄欖籽,準備用來做橄欖油,也跟葡萄一起儲存在我住的農舍。我還看見了野生茴香和迷迭香這兩種我在參觀時吃到的美食調味料。屋子周圍的土地原封不動,沒見到有開發過的痕跡,還不時會在地平線的遠處浮起一座小鎮,向人招手前往探訪。

Back at Pulcinello, my roomy bedroom has windows with more views of the endless verdant hills. Several of the Castello’’s farmhouses are available to rent (others you can purchase) and feature large stone fireplaces, unexpected, contemporary bathrooms with sunken tubs, glass-tiled, infinity-edge plunge pools overlooking the valley, and state-of-the-art kitchens equipped with Gianfranco Ballerini refrigerators. Friendly, attentive governantes (housekeepers) service each villa and are available to prepare breakfast (made-to-order eggs, croissants, salami, fresh fruit) or an alfresco lunch to enjoy on the farmhouse terrace. But even better is a hands-on cooking class in the kitchen with personal chef Lisa Banchieri, who taught a group of us how to make porcini and sausage risotto, eggplant bruschetta, and a tender wild boar (cinghiale) served with a subtle chocolate sauce.

(Pulcinello)普基納羅時,我的寬敞臥室有很多窗口,窗外都是一望無際的青翠山丘,(Castello)卡斯特羅的一些農舍都可供出租(有些還能買到),特徵是有大的石頭壁爐,意想不到很現代化的浴室,有陷入式的浴缸,玻璃瓷磚,無邊水池望向整個山谷,設計先進的廚房,配有Gianfranco Ballerini的名牌冰箱。每一個別墅都有友善殷勤的管理員(管家)在為客人服務,包括準備早餐(客人點制的雞蛋,牛角麵包,香腸和新鮮水果),在農舍的露台上享受戶外午餐的滋味。更甚的是還能在廚房裡跟私人廚師Lisa Banchieri上烹飪課動手做美食,教導一群人如何製作牛桿菌蘑菇加香腸燴飯,茄子烤麵包,溫烤的野豬肉(cinghiale豬種)配上精緻的巧克力醬。

In Tuscany, dishes aren’t complicated. They’re made with fresh vegetables, and flavored with a drizzle of olive oil. One night our governantes topped one homemade pizza after another with zucchini, paper-thin slices of prosciutto, caramelized onions, and cooked them in the farmhouse’s outdoor wood oven. The number of pizzas made and eaten reminded me of a scene from I Love Lucy.

突斯卡尼的菜餚並不複雜,都用新鮮蔬菜撒一些橄欖油當調味料。有一天晚上,我們的管理員不斷給自製的比薩餅加料,有西葫蘆(zucchini),紙片般薄的火腿(prosciutto),焦糖洋蔥,在農舍的戶外木烤箱上烤比薩餅,那幾片做出來吃進去的比薩餅讓我想起了(I Love Lucy)我愛露西(靈犬)這部電視劇裡的一幕。

Florence, Siena, and San Gimignano are a short drive from Castello di Casole, and the staff concierge will help you arrange a tour of the Uffizi, a personal shopping experience to hunt for handmade leather goods, or suggest local osterias for dinner. But the activities back at the property are just as appealing, and include bicycling to nearby hill towns such as Mensano and Radicondoli, taking an Italian language or ceramic class, and walking along scenic footpaths with the resident game warden to spot pheasant, deer, and boar. And if you’d rather just lounge by the pool with a glass of Chianti, life doesn’t get much better than being in your own farmhouse for the week and soaking in the country lifestyle that is Tuscany.

Castello di Casole到佛羅倫斯,(Siena)西雅娜和San Gimignano的車程不遠,酒店的禮賓員會協助安排遊覽Uffizi去體驗很私人的購物經驗,尋找手作的皮革品,或者找一間當地的小客棧去吃晚餐。但是,回到農場的活動也一樣很吸引人,可以騎腳踏車到附近的山鎮如MensanoRadicondoli去上意大利語言課或陶瓷製作課,走在風景秀麗的羊腸小徑,跟當地的遊玩舍監一起尋找野雞,鹿和野豬。如果你只是想要在泳池邊偷懶喝一杯(Chianti)激昂地產的美酒,倒不如來這裡待在一棟屬於你自己的農舍裡一個星期,完全沉浸在突斯卡尼的鄉村生活中。

 

by Susan O’Keefe, an associate editor for National Geographic Traveller magazine.

原文作者:蘇珊·奧基夫,她是國家地理旅行者雜誌的副主編。

 

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Source > National Geographic Traveller 國家地理雜誌旅人版

Translated by > BlogHost :- hkTan

Word Count > approx. 580 words in English

 

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